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Fall on the Lakes

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By Devin Olsen

Fall is unquestionably my favorite time to be drifting in my boat fishing loch style. In this post I'll take you through how the anatomy of a lake forces a resurgence in trout activity as water temperatures cool. Fall is often a time when the largest fish of the year show themselves in the shallows where they are most easily available to the fly angler. For example, the fish below came from a Wyoming lake a few weeks ago all between 4 and 13 feet in depth.









Typically most mid-elevation lakes (at least in the western United States) are what limnologists refer to as dimictic. This means they have two periods, spring and fall, when they become isothermal (one temperature) and they are prone to mixing during these times because of the water current that wind creates. During summer, the water in a lake typically stratifies into 3 layers defined below. This stratification occurs because of the different densities of water when water is at different temperatures.

Epilimnion: this is the warm surface of the lake where light penetrates easily. By definition, it remains relatively isothermal and thus the wind can continue to mix this layer. As phytoplankton or zooplankton are produced in this layer but die without being eaten, nutrients sink to the bottom of the lake and are sequestered until the beginning of turnover in the fall.

Thermocline: this layer is where light penetration fades and water temperatures rapidly drop as a result.

Hypolimnion: this layer is below the thermocline and is once again somewhat isothermal. In productive lakes this layer can often become hypoxic (devoid of sufficient oxygen) because of detritus decomposition and lack of photosynthesis. Fish may be limited by oxygen demands to the thermocline or epilimnion if it remains cold enough for comfort.

As an example of this stratification I've included a graph of August temperatures on Dillon Reservoir, CO where I've been conducting my Master's research. Notice the clearly defined water layers.
As lakes move into fall the epilimnion and thermocline begin to cool to the point where the entire lake becomes isothermal as seen by the straight line in the November graph below.

 At this point water begins to mix and nutrients lost from the surface layers during the summer are brought toward the surface again often resulting in a bloom of zooplankton which is not lost on the trout. Once the entire lake becomes isothermal around 40 degrees fahrenheit, wind can readily mix the water which reoxygenates the water column going into winter. This is a critical process in lakes that are prone to winterkill. In shallow productive lakes the water can become quite turbid at this time and the fishing can turn off. This effect is less pronounced in large deeper lakes where the transition happens in spatially separate areas of the lake. You can usually find clear water and feeding trout somewhere int he lake in this situation if you have mobility.

As surface waters cool, trout activity picks up. In many lakes, epilimnion temperatures become too warm for comfort or even survival for trout during the summer. As the temperature drops back into the low 60's and 50's their metabolism responds dramatically and their demand for consumption increases. The conundrum is that most of the main insect hatches have waned at this point other than in some lakes which have multiple broods of callibaetis. The trout must focus on other food year round food sources like leeches, scuds, zooplankton, etc. Trout usually move into the shallows as temperatures cool since these are usually the richest areas in lakes with a functioning littoral zone. Fluctuating reservoirs don't often fit this description when they are steep sided but trout still utilize the food congregating nature of the water's edge. Trout also become more opportunistic during this period since they are not seeing scores of one food item but usually must make use of any food item they come in contact with. This is when the fly angler should put the dainty wet flies and midge tip aside and pull out the buggers and heavy tippet. This is also why I believe fall provides the perfect recipe for the fly angler. It's a time when trout need to eat but there is less to eat than during the spring and summer hatches. So go show the trout a few flies they are desperate to chomp before your lake freezes this fall. I think you'll be happy with the result.


A physiological perspective on temperature and trout.

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I've had a lot of ideas about what to post after my first one a few days ago, many of which I hope to get to in the near future. For this post I'll build on the temperature theme I introduced in my last post http://www.tacticalflyfisherman.com/2013/10/fall-on-lakes.html

Fish in general, except some tuna species, are ectothermic (cold blooded) creatures. In large part, their metabolic processes are regulated by the temperature of their environment. For example, below is a graph from some of my recent bioenergetics modeling of the energy consumed on a daily basis by a year class of Arctic char in my research lake and the corresponding environmental temperature.

As you can see the consumptive demand of the char rises with temperature and drops dramatically again as the temperature falls. This happens on both sides of a fish' optimum temperature as you can see in the next graph from a study on char growth at different temperatures.
As a fish reaches its own optimum temperature, the catalytic enzymes which determine the speed of its metabolism are at their most efficient speed. As it passes this temperature the enzymes begin to change conformational shape resulting in a rapid decrease in metabolism and stress. Luckily, this stress is reversible if temperatures cool. However, given that we're coming into winter here in the northern hemisphere I'll focus on the cold side of the spectrum.

Most trout are at their best between 55-65 degrees. Given that the Poudre in the canyon started at 38 degrees last Saturday I would say that things are definitely beginning to drop into winter mode. This means a giant reduction in energy demand and feeding activity. I always laugh when I walk into a fly shop in the winter and someone says, "get out there and fish, they still gotta eat." In many places during the winter, that's simply not the case. As water temperature falls below 35 degrees fahrenheit most trout are so far into the left side of the energy demand curve above that they can go most of the winter without eating and still be around when the baetis start hatching in the spring. All is not lost though for those who have rivers near them that stay open in the winter. Indeed some of my favorite days on the river are when the banks are white with a fresh snow. If nothing else, you usually have a lot less people to share them with. Below are 6 ways to cope with the challenge of winter temperatures.

1. Keep a thermometer with you and use it. When there is skim ice about and the water is 33 degrees or below you're probably wasting your time for the most part. You may be able to come back later if the water warms. If possible, fish closer to the dam if you're on a tailwater or seek stretches of river with springwater input or warm effluents like those from wastewater treatment plants.
2. Shift your choice of water. As trout take in less energy when it's cold they also need to conserve it. This means backing out of the riffles and pocketwater that are so amazing to fish earlier in the year and focusing on where current slows in runs and pools. This isn't a hard and fast rule though so I usually fish a few of the best looking banks and pockets in the winter to spot check if fish are still there. Last year I was surprised by quite a few fish holding in skinny water on the Provo River while on my visit home for Christmas.
3. Fish the choicest pools and deep runs more thoroughly. Fish will not be willing to move as much and may require several changes in rig, depth, angle, or fly to get them to eat. Patience is always rewarded in the winter. Sometimes it just takes a lot of drifts to get your fly precisely in front of a trout's nose.
4. Once you've found fish, stay on them. Fish that used to be spread out in faster water will be congregated together in the best winter holding water. If you catch one there will likely be more. Change flies every 20 or so drifts without a fish and you might be surprised how many you get out of a small area. On that same trip to the Provo last year, I found a tiny slack bank behind a bush that produced 3 doubles and 6 more fish before I finally decided to have mercy and move on. The action hadn't really slowed when I left. The spot couldn't have been more than 3 x 3 feet but the fish were packed in regardless.
5. Pull out the suspension rig in slow water. Especially in the typically low base flows of winter, pools will often be flat and the fish unapproachable from a Euro-nymphing distance without spooking them or getting poor drifts. Don't be afraid to pull out your favorite dry fly or indicator to fish these spots.
6. Fish flashier flies than you might at other times. I'll revisit this one in a future post.

Happy winter fishing!


Article 22

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After former Team USA captain announce his creation of the Pro Fly Angling tour a little while ago, the industry blogs and media were set afire with a bunch of negative press against competitive fly-fishing. It's the same argument I've heard since I started competing about how we're crumbling the foundations of the sport. It's funny how the competitive anglers I've met could not be more dedicated to the aura of the sport as well to the execution of it. Anyway, I've done my best to remain ignorant of what has been said since I'm not a confrontational person and I don't find it productive to involve myself in comment bashing sessions between anonymous haters who like to flex their keyboard muscles. Until people actually witness what goes on at a tournament and meet a few competitive anglers it's impossible to change their mind anyway. That being said I took a quick peak at the last post about competitive fishing that Phil Monahan put up. In it he referenced an old blog post from the Fly Fishing Team USA blog (Feb 2012). Since the team will be launching a new website and blog soon I decided I would repost the text here since I'm not sure how long the old link will last. Here is the link for now and the text has been pasted below. For those who might not know I'm glad that the part about George Daniel leaving Team USA has come full circle. We are extremely fortunate to have him as our captain again for the Czech Republic in 2014.


If you follow any of the Fly Fisherman blogs or other online fly fishing news feeds you may have noticed a fair amount of press that Fly Fishing Team USA has been receiving as of late. Some of that press has been good some bad. Some of it has been fair and some of it unfair. Many of the observers have been so called “objective third parties” who have commented on how the team has been picked, how it has operated, and our perceived low level of success over the history of the team. To be honest, I don’t know much about what others have said because I believe it’s not worth my time to get angry about something someone may have said or, just as importantly, get inflated by any sort of praise that may happen to come. I prefer to invest my time worrying about how I am fishing and do my best to let the commentary fall where it may. In light of the recent coaching change of George Daniel leaving FF Team USA and being hired by the North Carolina Fly Fishing Team as their head coach, many have wondered about the stability of Fly Fishing Team USA and the organization. There is no doubt that we have our challenges as we are constrained by what founding ownership allows us to do. That being said, we also have much to look forward to and I foresee much greater success for the team in our future and for competitive fly fishing in America as a whole.  
            If your goals in fly fishing are fame and fortune then you needn’t read on. However, if you want to have an experience that will change the way you think about fly fishing and expose you to the range of human emotion then the rest of this blog may be for you. The following are this entirely biased and subjective author’s five best reasons to try and make Fly Fishing Team USA (and consequently why I believe the team will continue to grow and succeed) and the top 5 things that will make you successful in attaining that goal. They are not necessarily listed in hierarchical order. By the way, if you find this blog long winded or a bit too literary in length I apologize because I just finished reading The River Why and I may wax a bit poetic.

Reasons to try and make FF Team USA:

1.     Fishing with and against the best anglers in the country and the world.
Many reading this blog will laugh and say as others have that the members of FF Team USA aren’t the best anglers in the country and that there are far better anglers who could be winning gold medals every year at the World Fly Fishing Championship (WFFC hereafter). To them I say step up. If you think you can hand it to me, Lance Egan, Norman Maktima, Anthony Naranja, Mike Sexton, Rob Kolanda,……….. etc. then do it. Ultimately we/I want Team USA to be winning every WFFC gold medal and if that happens with someone who beats me out to get a spot on a WFFC team then we have succeeded and I have no one to blame but myself for lack of hard work and skill. To those same people I say look up names like Yann Caleri of France, Martin Droz of the Czech Republic, or any number of other fantastic European fly anglers and realize like I have that there is a whole world of fly anglers out there with a better level of overall skill than what this great country has been able to produce so far. We (Americans) are not the best yet but we can be the best if we only will accept and support the idea of competitive fly fishing. For all those who believe that competition topples the foundations of the quiet sport I say look no further than Europe where the tradition of fly fishing is very strong and their entire fly fishing industry is driven by competition. I digress.

2.     Representing the USA!
The WFFC is the holy grail of fly fishing for me because of this fact. There is nothing that instills greater pride in me than to fish with the stars and stripes on my shirt. Nothing brings more pride in success and nothing more anguish in defeat.  There is also nothing I want more than to stand on the podium with my teammates at the WFFC soon.

3.     Becoming the Best Angler you can be.
Sadly, before I began competitive fly fishing I thought of myself as a very capable angler. I have only learned otherwise since. Every session of competition where my ending score doesn’t land me in first place (and plenty of those that have) is an illustration that I missed something. Nothing will motivate you more to become a better fly angler than feeling like you fished a beat as well as you could only to come back and realize that someone else buried your score. Even worse that another angler followed you and eclipsed your score in the same beat of water in a later session. Because of this, the angler I was in 2006 when I made the team was but a shadow of the angler I am now and I hope that what I am now is a shadow of what I will be in another 6 years. The pressure of this game will either break you or refine you into the purest and strongest incarnation of your angling self. Competing for or to get on FF Team USA will make you a better angler, period.

4.     The fly fishing band of brothers.
Many of the fondest memories most fly fishers make have little to with the fishing but rather whom they are fishing with. My experience the last 6 years has been no different. Looking back on 4 National Championships, 1 Oceania Championship, and 3 WFFC, my experience has been one of the most heartbreaking and satisfying experiences I think I could have found anywhere. You get to experience the jubilance of a teammate winning a session and the agony over another one’s blank with the team poised for a medal. They get the same experience with you. You work together toward a common goal through grueling days and long nights of laughter and fly tying. To be honest, I don’t have a lot of friends outside of the team and its revolving circuit of competitive fly fishers and I don’t really feel the need for them. The ones I have are irreplaceable because of the experiences we’ve had together and there is nothing anyone could have more in common with me than a passion for and an absolute dedication to competitive fly fishing and the fish that we all seek.

5.     Fishing in fantastic exotic places
Up to this point competitive fly fishing has taken me to Scotland, Poland, Italy, Tasmania, New Zealand, Pennsylvania, North Carolina, Oregon, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, Colorado, California, and will take me to Slovenia for this year’s WFFC. Most of these travels haven’t brought me to the famous and trendy yet wonderful locales that most cold water fly fisherman think of such as Patagonia, Alaska, Kamchatcka, British Columbia, etc. What I have experienced is a wide array of fisheries that have given me the opportunity to catch beautiful fish like European grayling, marble trout, and brown trout in waters where they are actually native. Not only this but in a round about way, because of scoring, competitive fly fishing has taught me to appreciated every fish caught not just the large ones. These competitions have also exposed me to a wonderful variety of water types from the small Tyenna River (we would call it a creek here) in Tasmania to the roaring glacial Aurino Torrent (that lived up to its name) and from the beautiful traditional lochs and pine boats of Scotland to the rugged beauty of Lago di Braies in Italy. I’ve fished water that has given up fish almost at will and water that has blanked every competitor in a session. Rivers raging with mud and floating 60 foot tall hardwoods to gin clear waters where approaching within 40 feet of a fish spelled the end of your chance for the session. You get the picture. I’ve loved every minute of it. I’ve also learned just how lucky we are to have the fishing we do in the United States.

The top 5 things you need to be a successful member of FF Team USA:

1.     Serious all around fly fishing ability
Being a master of one fly fishing skill won’t cut it. If you just fish rivers you’ve got to be able to fish lakes. If you just fish nymphs you’ve got to be able to fish dry flies and streamers. If you just fish riffles you’ve got to be able to fish flats and on and on. This has been the most difficult part for me because we all tend to favor certain techniques and water types. When I started competing to get on the team, I was as big a strike indicator junkie as you could find.

2.     Confidence, Mental Stability, and a Short Memory
Though we compete in a team format, the actual fly fishing is done individually. In order to be successful you must believe in yourself and your approach. Just like any other individual sport, you must be stable enough to forget your successes and failures in each session long enough to tackle the next session with a level head. You are only as good as your next session’s result because consistency is what brings you the bling in this game. Many of the best anglers on or off the team have fallen victim to being unable to recover from a bad session. Resilience is key.

3.     Get Over Yourself!
It’s comical how large the egoes are in the world of fly fishing in and out of competition. After all, we make up the thinnest possible slice of the sporting world in this country. If you want glory in fly fishing then you’re going to share it with awfully few people. Heaven knows we all fall victim to pride and arrogance and I’m certainly not an exception. There have been quite a few anglers to come to a Team USA regional beating their chest over the years. Few of them have had lasting success. In time, this game will humble every angler teaching him that someone else is always better at a certain situation than he is. If you can’t live with humility you can’t be teachable and progression as an angler stops. So if you believe you are a fly fishing stud come give competitive fly angling a try. You may actually be a stud but none of us will find out if you don’t give it a try. If you are willing to learn you will find success on some level. If you think you are God’s gift to fly fishing, I bet you won’t feel that way for long.

4.     Integrity, loyalty, professionalism, and teamwork
We are ambassadors who represent the USA to the fly fishing world. If you can’t fish with honesty and integrity, be loyal to your team and your country, and conduct yourself with professionalism you need not apply. This is an often overlooked but deeply critical part of individual and team success. We need you to be a great angler and a great person to contribute to the team. Some of the saddest stories in Team USA history arose from internal strife and bigotry. Some of our best successes were a result of the amalgam of great men who happen to fly fish who succeeded because they conducted themselves as a team in a way that we can be proud of and worked together as a collective unit.

5.     Last but certainly not least, a supportive home life.
If you are not single, competitive fly fishing will soak up money and time away from your family. If your spouse, family, etc. is not supportive than you won’t be successful for long. No one fishes well when he feels guilty about being there. In this regard, I am among the luckiest of all men. Thank you Julia.

If you feel like you have the preceding qualities and you’re interested in competitive fly fishing, then get after it and come fish.

What do different tying beads weigh?

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            My vise broke the other night and I had planned on some sort of tying post this week. Instead I decided to take on another little project for the blog until I get my vise back from repair.
            Before I started competition fishing I was the biggest tailwater indicator nymphing junkee you could have met. I was meticulous about adding or subtracting small shot from my leader and micro adjusting my indicator to attain just a little deeper or shallower drift. I remember sitting in many runs and pools on the Lower Provo and making one of these microadjustments and catching 2-5 more fish with each change. Sometimes I could pull a dozen or two more fish from a prime pool by making multiple adjustments.
            Most of the nymphing I do now is in a European competitive style. However this certainly doesn’t mean these microadjustments aren’t just as important as when I was indicator fishing. The difference is that my changes now are made by switching fly weights and manipulating the height, angle, and/or length of my leader to achieve the perfect drift. These changes can’t be made though if you don’t know the difference in weight between flies at least in a relative fashion. Some anglers like my teammate Pat Weiss color code the thread heads on their flies based on their weights. This system works fine but I doubt I’d ever be able to keep my colors straight so I organize my flies by weight. I do this by weighing them on a digital scale and then dividing the sections of my fly boxes into weight intervals.
            Thanks to the brilliance of the Belgian team at a World Championship back in the 90's, we now accomplish most of our weighting with bead heads. But how can you know how much different beads weigh, and as a result your flies, without dropping hundreds of dollars on tungsten and spending hours at a grain scale? Easy, I did this for you. 

The average value of weighing at least 15 beads in each size and style of bead are in the table below. Numbers in parentheses are the standard deviation of the average. Underscores represent bead sizes in each style that aren't readily available in the US (at least to my knowledge) though some of them may be purchased overseas. The exception is the 2mm brass which I weighed but they didn't have enough weight to register a value on the scale. NA represents beads that are available in the U.S. but I didn't have any to weigh.

My initial conclusions are
  • Within batches there isn't a lot of variance in weight. However, between batches and especially between companies there is a fair amount of variance. For instance, notice the fairly high standard deviation of 3mm disco slotted beads. In this category there was a group of beads that  weighed 3.3-3.4 grains and and another group that weighed 2.7-2.8 grains. I know these beads were a mix of Umpqua and Riplips beads but unfortunately I don't know what weights corresponded to each company.
  • In general disco slotted beads are heavier than regular slotted beads in the same size. 
  • The English sized (eg. 7/64") countersunk tungsten beads weighed drastically less than the next size up metric bead (3 mm). These English sized beads were either Metz beads from Umpqua or Montana Fly beads. This is why I feel that tying flies is essential to success in Euro nymphing. Most of the nymphs commercially available use these beads and weigh much less than the same size fly with a metric bead only .2mm bigger in diameter. It's amazing how much difference in sink rate 1/2 a grain can make, especially in small fly sizes where this disparity reflects a large proportion of the flies total weight. Furthermore, a lot of commercial flies don't add any lead wire for extra weight in addition to the bead.
  • If you've ever questioned whether tungsten is worth the extra money just look at the brass data. Most of the time you'll be wasting your time with brass flies unless your fishing skinny flat water where slow sink rate is preferable.
  • Next time I purchase beads I will be weighing them on arrival so I don't mix them in with my current supply if their weights are disparate.

Oliver Edwards video

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If you're looking for something to watch while you're tying flies tonight I came across this Oliver Edwards video on youtube. I got through about half of it trying to rock my newborn to sleep last night. If nothing else it's interesting to watch one of fly fishing's icons (Oliver) revisit the flies and water of Frank Sawyer who is one of our sport's ultimate icons. It's quite the paradox of a contemporary angler, known for the utmost in realism in his flies, talking about and showing the effectiveness of Sawyer's most basic ties which have lived gloriously into the fly boxes of angler's today.

Cortland 10' 6" 3wt competition nymph rod

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A few weekends ago I went fishing with FF Team USA teammate Jeremy Sides and our now mutual friend Joe Schwonke. Joe introduced Jeremy to the Cortland 10' 6" 3wt Competition Nymph rod a few months back and he's been fishing it every since including during the national championships in October. Given that my only other experience with Cortland rods was with a Cortland Fairplay from Walmart that I fished in elementary and middle school, I was deeply skeptical that the rod could be as good as Jeremy was hyping it to be. As we rigged up that morning on the Poudre I shook Joe's rod next to the 4 wt Sage ESN I was about to fish for the day. A couple of comparative shakes later my interest was more than just peaked. The rod performed great that day and I knew that I had to do a deeper investigation. Joe connected me with Brooks Robinson and Joe Goodspeed at Cortland and they were gracious enough to send me the 10' 6" 3wt to fish. I also received some of their new white indicator mono and a couple of their competition nymphing fly lines.
I get sick of magazine reviews where the author has likely fished or worn a product for only a day or two only to proclaim it's life changing superiority. Therefore, I'm going to avoid being a prisoner of the moment and I will bring you a full review in a month or two after I've had the rod out on the water a lot more. For now it suffices me to say that if you're in the market for your first Euro-nymphing rod and you aren't ready to pony up the dollars for an ESN, I think this rod lineup is the one you should be in the market for. Check out what the rod designer Joe Goodspeed has to say about the rods here.

Below are a couple photos of the rod.




A tale of two seasons

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           While fishing tough pressured water may have a lot of benefits from a competitive perspective, I have a deep love for backcountry fishing. There is nothing I love more than putting some miles between the car and I and having a stretch of river or an alpine lake to myself. There is a river fairly near to my home in Fort Collins that has several different sections of hike in water. This river is a bit of a rare commodity along the Front Range which has a relative dearth of hike in rivers compared to where I've lived in Utah, Montana, and Idaho. Unfortunately, though there are backcountry stretches through some mid-elevation arid canyons on this particular river, extensive diversions above these canyons leave the river fishable usually only for a few weeks prior to and after runoff. As a result, I've spent as many days as possible on this water  in May and June since moving here in 2011.
           Toward the end of May this year I went to explore a section of this river that I hadn't seen yet. It requires a 3 mile hike to reach which doesn't sound like much until you traverse over a series of 200 foot tall cliffs to pass the last quarter mile. This day probably provided my most memorable day of fishing this year. I was pleasantly surprised upon arrival to find a willing population of nice sized browns and wild rainbows that ate a frenchie without hesitation. Unfortunately the irrigators put in the gates and the next week the river had gone from just over 100 cfs to 8 and the temperatures went from the low 60's to over 70. I still have no idea how these fish survive the summer. I would assume it is definitely a bottleneck period for survival.
           Growing up in Utah where there is a plethora of great brown trout streams but wild rainbow streams are few and far between, I still get giddy at the red stripe of a rainbow repeatedly jumping in the air. Considering that many of the rainbow populations in Colorado were essentially wiped out by the 90's due to whirling disease, seeing the white tipped fins of a wild rainbow is all the more precious when many of these streams now host only gutter raised hatchery rainbows which leave much to be desired. The wild rainbows of this river give me hope that somehow they are living against the odds here which gives me hope for their future elsewhere.
           Due to the catastrophic floods in September this year, the river has enough of a baseflow this fall to make it fishable again. This hasn't happened either of the other two autumns I've been here. I wanted to check on how the river survived the floods and see if there were any large post spawn browns moving in to this section from a body of water below so I convinced my labmate Clark to make the walk in with me last Saturday. On the way in, the evidence of the flood was still very evident. Debris was lodged in trees a full 10 feet above the current water level.

A tiny tributary had filled in with 8-10 feet of sediment where I had to walk up the canyon to get around this spot in the spring. On the way back Clark and I both got stuck in silt with quicksand properties here. I could actually feel my hip trying to dislocate as I tried to remove my left leg. Thankfully it was a near miss for both of us and I'm here to type this blog today.



However, the water itself looked pretty good when we arrived. The river is fortunate in this canyon to have an intact riparian corridor with enough stabilizing vegetation and space to spread that the channel didn't shift nearly as badly as it has on some of the other Front Range Rivers. When we arrived I took a temp and the thermometer read a frigid 37.5 degrees.


I knew that the fish would be sluggish at best at this temperature. I fished through some medium depth broken water for almost an hour with no result. I finally decided to find some deeper and slower winter holding water. Just up river I came across the pool in the picture below.


A slow seam in the center produced by some underwater boulders held multiple fish on both sides of the structure. The first fish I caught was a male brown of about 17" which took a frenchie. The spawn had been tough on him and he had several scars with fungus around his adipose fin so I quickly returned him to the water without a photo. I couldn't see any redds around but I figured the browns were likely done spawning with these water temps. I'm not a giant egg fan. In all of my nymph boxes I'll bet I don't own more than 18 of them. That doesn't keep them from working though so I humbled myself and chucked on a tungsten glo bug and proceeded to catch 6 or 7 more fish from the pool while Clark took turns in the fun with a few of his own. I took a temp at this point and it had warmed to 38.5 degrees. It wasn't a big jump but the positive direction seemed to have bumped the trout's activity up a notch.



Several other pools produced multiple fish upriver and even a pocket or two but a bank of high clouds moved in which I knew would stall further warming of the water. We had a decision to make and I made a gamble to retreat to the river closer to the valley to find warmer water. So at 2 o'clock after only 3.5 hours of fishing we made the hike back down. When we reached the river there were 8 other anglers in the short little stretch I wanted to fish. I took a temp though which read 42.5 degrees so at least I'd made the correct temperature gamble.  
         I fit into a gap where I knew a couple of anglers had just been fishing indicator rigs. The pool didn't produce like it did a couple of weeks ago but within about 10 minutes I landed 3 rainbows and a brown. Three of them ate a version of the rainbow warrior I'll talk about in one of my next few posts. The next hour produced more fairly solid fishing and I was glad Clark and I had been rewarded for our quick jaunt back. Though I'm sure we would have caught more fish if we'd stayed in the lower water all day we wouldn't have known whether the backcountry stretch could have been the best day of the year. That's the kind of knowledge I prefer not to remain ignorant of.

The curious case of the pink Rainbow Warrior

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       To preface this post I would like to say that presentation will always supersede pattern in fly fishing, at least in my opinion. This is a topic I could go on about for days. For those who know Pat Weiss he typically roles with a very simple set of flies. However, he is a master of presentation which has led him to a lot of competitive success the last few years. Simply put if you're finding little success on the river it's probably time to work on your technique, not search for the "right fly" that would will change your fortune. That being said, if two anglers' presentations are equal, I do believe that flies make a difference. If they didn't I wouldn't carry around thousands of them and be constantly playing with new patterns. With this said here is the rest of the story.
        A few years ago I sat in a fly shop in South Fork, CO when another good old boy from a certain state to the southeast walked in. He proceeded to tell me how is was funny that fly shops carried so many flies since fish couldn't see color anyway. I asked him why he thought that but it was clear after a few more minutes there wasn't much point in pursuing the topic with him. I don't remember his name but if by some miracle he comes across this blog I hope he now knows that FISH CAN SEE COLOR! That was made abundantly clear in the fish physiology course I took a couple of semesters ago. Fish have an eye structure that is not that far from our own with a similar system of rods and cones to help them see in a wide array of conditions. The cones are mainly for seeing, you guessed it.......color. However, the spectrum of light they can see is another topic I may or may not delve into another time.
        The importance of color and flash was manifest to me a couple of winters ago while I was living in Logan, UT. Current FF TeamUSA teammate Glade Gunther and I were fishing on a February day on a river in the valley. I wasn't doing poorly but in several holding spots I came through and either failed to catch a fish or only managed one or two. I was fishing a trusty pair of Lance Egan's flies, the Surveyor and a Rainbow Warrior. Glade came through behind me and was catching fish where I had just failed and severely bruising my ego. We took turns and I felt there wasn't a noticeable difference in our presentation. When I asked him what he was using he placed a fluorescent pink Rainbow Warrior in my hand that almost hurt the eyes to look at because of its brightness. Frankly, I was a bit surprised. He gave me one to fish and I instantly began having similar success. The only difference was the fluorescent pink color compared to the standard red of the original Rainbow Warrior. I returned home and tied some copies. Since then it has been a perennial favorite of mine when the water is cold and I feel I need some pizazz to break fish out of their winter doldrums to eat my fly. I suspect that the low sun angles of winter also dampen the sheer brightness of the fly as well, making it more enticing and less frightening to the fish. I have not had nearly as much success with this fly during the late spring through the early fall. It has really only shown it's merit from November to March for the most part.
         For tying instructions for the Rainbow Warrior, see my friend Loren William's site. The only difference I make is adding a thin coat of super glue under the tinsel for durability. I also substitute coq de leon for the tail. The thread I use on the pink version is 70 denier Fl. Pink UTC. I hope it brings you as many winter fish as it has for me.




Another creek after the flood

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Saturday was a very windy day here along the Front Range. Jeremy Sides and I decided we should try and target a small canyon to minimize it as much as possible so we headed to Boulder Creek. I've fished down in town before but I hadn't fished up in the canyon so I was looking forward to some new water. We got to the river around 9 and tried to find a sliver of canyon that had a bit of sun on it. This happended to be a difficult task but we found a few hundred yards that fit the bill. The riparian zone was pretty ripped up after September's flood with loose rocks, broken trees, no undergrowth, and areas where the river had badly eroded it's banks. I suppose this was to be expected though.
Post flood Boulder Creek

A mild example of the loose rocks along the creek
Somehow most of the fish seem to have survived the flood. Too bad it didn't help them grow since a big fish here is still about 10 inches! When we got to the water it was 36.5 degrees but the fish were willing within minutes. Jeremy and I mainly fished upstream with single nymphs for the day. Most patterns worked pretty well with pheasant tail/frenchie variations and hare's ear variations performing their standard duty. I think the highlight of the day was sight fishing to quite a few fish. The clear water and the light colored sediment the flood washed in made spotting fish fairly easy. Jeremy even had one fish turn downstream and follow his nymph 3-4 feet before finally eating.
The Cast

The Set

The Net

Jeremy had quite a few fish eat flies with lucent slotted pink or red beads. You can pick them up from Kevin Compton's Performance Flies.
Boulder Creek brown on a pink beaded hare's ear.

Boulder Creek brown on a red beaded pheasant tail
I think my fishing lesson for you on the day is to look for exceptions to the rule. In several of my last posts I've told you to look for slower water of medium depth or greater in cold temperatures. In general, this water type is found in pools or slower runs. This is definitely where we found most of our fish yesterday. However, there were exceptions like the two spots in the photo below in pocketwater that both produced a fish. The rocks slowed the water enough with a minimum amount of turbulence to produce cold water conditions good enough to hold at least one fish. When you're out on the water this winter. Look for places like this that other anglers pass by while they're pool hopping. You might have a shot at some fish that haven't been bothered for awhile.

The misconception of "Czech-Nymphing" in the press and public of American Fly-Fishing

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The result of Euro-nymphing on the Poudre today.
I’ve put this post off for a few weeks because I knew it could run away from me and end up taking days to write. I’m going to do my best not to let that happen. The impetus for the post is that over the last few years I have taught quite a few Euro-nymphing clinics. Invariably the students themselves and the shops that I teach the clinics for have a vastly different idea of what nymphing techniques are actually being used in the world of fly fishing competitions vs. what they have been told is "Czech Nymphing". To highlight this fact, the owner of the Crystal Fly-Shop in Carbondale recently wrote the Aspen Daily News and essentially accused the competitors at this year's national championship of foul hooking a large share of their fish with 3 bright nymphs jigged in the face of trout. Something tells me Mr. Johnson didn't watch any of the competitors fish. If he had, he would have seen something much different.
As a perfect example of the misconception of competition nymphing being propagated by the fly fishing press, I recently came across an article titled, "Czech Nymphing for Western Waters" in the Fall 2013 Fly Fishing and Fly Tying Journal. Now I am certainly not accusing the author Glenn Zinkus of intentionally trying to lead anyone astray. He just needs to pick up a copy of George Daniel's book Dynamic Nymphing for a contemporary treatment of competitively inspired nymphing. I simply believe the technique Zinkus described hasn't been used very successfully in world fly fishing championships since Cognard pioneered the use of the French leader and the deadly and versatile range of nymphing it spawned. I have only been fishing in the World Fly Fishing Championships since 2009 so I can't personally vouch for what techniques have been used prior to that time and I don't get to see a lot of what other competitors are using who aren't in adjacent beats to me. However, several veteran FF Team USA mates and I have a much cherished video from the 2004 World Championships in Slovakia. It is more than evident on this video that competitors had moved toward the style of nymphing I'll describe in the rest of the post. Below, I'll take you through some excerpts of what Mr. Zinkus describes as "Czech Nymphing" vs. what I'll label contemporary Euro-Nymphing because it is a melting pot of different styles from Europe into more of a nymphing system. The text of the article will be in italics followed by my take.

"Traditional Czech nymph rigs are a group of three flies."
It's very rare these days that I fish 3 flies on a nymphing rig. The only exception is in heavy deep water (more than chest deep). Most of the time I fish one or two flies. It is nearly impossible to fit 3 flies into small pockets or narrow seams without your drift suffering because one or more flies land in different current speeds. Having one or two flies creates better accuracy, better dead drifts, and reduces tangling while casting or while a fish is in the net. I won't say that all competitors are avoiding 3 flies because I know others who still use them and use them well, but I would say they are in the minority.

"The Czech nymph itself is tied with a very slender body but heavily weighted, so that the fly sinks quickly on these short drifts."
While the original Czech nymph exemplified a representation of a caddis larvae or scud, Euro nymphing today employs a wide range of patterns in addition to Czech style nymphs. Most people I have talked to about "Czech nymphing" have the impression that it should be done with bomb heavy flies incorporating 4mm tungsten beads, a pile of lead wire, and on hook sizes 12-6. In reality, I spend most of my time with flies from size 18-12 tied with tungsten beads between 2mm and 3.5mm. I do carry larger and heavier flies for the occasional abyssal run or hole but they don't see water very often.

"A Czech nymph leader is not tapered.....I prefer a straight monofilament leader....Overall leader length should not exceed the length of the rod."
The length and design of the leader is the fundamental crux which separates today's Euro-nymphing from what is described in this article. I use a leader that is about twice the length of my rod to conform with the new Fips Mouche leader length rule. With a 10' rod the math is easy and my leader ends up being about 19' just to be safely short of twice the length of my rod. Why so long you say? Two reasons: 1) any more than a few inches of line or leader on the water inevitably creates drag unless mended which then induces slack. Therefore, the best way to eliminate drag is to keep line and leader off the water. 2) Once fly line is picked up off the water gravity takes over and line sags towards you inducing drag by another route. Leader material is much lighter than fly line and can be suspended without dragging small lightly weighted flies toward you. 

"These multiple-fly combinations can be prone to tangling. Use a gentle flip of the wrist to create a lob cast."
For those who have ever watched Pat Weiss nymph, he definitely does not lob his flies. He casts his nymph rig with perfectly controlled loops that allow him to manipulate his rig anyway he wants. A properly tapered leader and long nymphing rod definitely helps. For leader formula examples see George's book. For a quick example you can refer to a post on Troutlegend from a few days ago.

"Once the cast is made......keep the rod even and parallel with the surface of the water so that the leader and flies are straight under the rod tip." 
The technique described above by Zinkus limits you to only fishing across the current in heavy water that hides you from the fish so you can approach within a rod length. However, having a long leader allows you to fish both across the river and upstream as well as well beyond your rod tip.

"Begin moving the rod downstream and smoothly lead the flies down the river current."
If you are truly leading your flies downstream then you are creating downstream drag. If my leader is off the water I maintain a nearly vertical or slightly downstream leader angle to achieve as dead a drift as possible.

Lastly, Zinkus does not mention this aspect directly in his article, but takes should be visual when Euro nymphing. There is a reason that hi-vis mono is incorporated into Euro-nymphing leaders. This "sighter" mono allows you to see takes. If you are allowing your flies to dead drift you will see takes before you feel them because you are not overly tight to your nymphs which affects their drift. 

For those who are interested in learning more you really should pick up Dynamic Nymphing. Though I've had the pleasure of fishing with George on the water and much of what he wrote about in the book wasn't brand new to me, I've still read it 4 or 5 times and I find new tidbits that pique my interest and improve my skill on the water each time I revisit it. There are also videos available produced by Steve Parrotand Aaron Jasper. I haven't seen any of them though so I can't speak personally as to their content.

Happy Nymphing,
Devin

Spool Minders from Flyfishfood

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I made up some spool minders this last weekend after seeing a cool post by my friends over at Flyfishfood. They worked well and I'm excited to lose a few less spools of wire to tangling since they often slide out of the edge trap. I would make the spool minders a little longer (a full circumference) if they will go on tinsel spools since I found the tinsel would kink or bind under itself if the tension of the spool minder was too much. I also made some smaller ones for Sulky tinsel spools that seem to work well. Happy crafting!

The Hackle Stacker Caddis

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At the World Fly Fishing Championships in Norway this year the few fish there were to be caught showed a particular interest in dry flies. For example, the brown below rose near my teammate Lance Egan and I during a particularly tough practice session for our team. I made a cast that went a bit long and the fish moved 3-4 feet out of his lane to inhale a parachute Adams. 
 
There were as many caddis around as there were mayflies so I sat down at the vise that night and played with some patterns. One of my favorite Baetis patterns for the last several years has been the hackle stacker. I've had a lot of success with it on pressured fish that have refused other patterns. I also like the fact that it is easier to keep floating than the go to CDC patterns that are often used in similar situations. In Norway, I wanted a caddis with similar qualities that would float well but also fool fish in flat water with a low riding profile. Sticking a hackle stacker on the front of a caddis seemed to be an obvious design to try. I fished the hackle stacker caddis in my second session on the Vefsna River. Luckily I had one of the few beats that held good numbers of fish. For the first 45 minutes or so of my session I fished my new creation with good success starting with a brown on my first cast. I fished up the bank and caught 6 browns and grayling of my 16 to win the session with the new fly. 

When I returned home I was anxious to try the new fly on some Colorado fish. The Poudre River trout near my home also have a particular liking for dry flies. I tied some hackle stacker caddis in sizes 12-10 to fish as attractors that would be able to suspend a nymph. Happily, I found it could hold nymphs up to a size 14 with a 3mm bead fairly easily and in smooth pools it was able to hold up a double dropper rig with a size 14 and a 16 nymph. The hackle in the front provides floatation when the fly is tipped head downward, which happens when fishing the dry on a tag as mandated by the rules in competition. Even more happily, I found that I caught at least half of my fish on the dry instead of the nymph while using it. The fly has since found similar success on many of the other rivers in Colorado and was important during my America Cup win this year.

More recently, after reading a book I'll talk about in a future post, I decided to try the caddis in a "Purple Haze" configuration. I fished it for the first time with Jeremy Sides and Joe Schwonke back on the Poudre. The morning started out with 38 degree water, not exactly prime dry fly temps, and yet the first eat I had came on the new purple configuration. The water stayed cold enough (low 40's) the rest of the day that I normally wouldn't expect fish to come to dries, especially an attractor dry.  However, on one illustrative bank I caught 10 fish on a slow edge below a boulder. I could see most of them on light colored silt and I had the pleasure of watching 7 of the 10 rise to eat the caddis. Even this last week I had a few half hearted rises to it despite the river being 34 degrees. 

Without further ado here is the recipe and instructions. Hopefully, you'll find it as useful on your local water as I have on mine.

Purple Haze Hackle Stacker Caddis:
Hook: 8-16 dry. The hook in the instructions is the Fulling Mill grab gape.
Thread: 8/0 uni. I prefer not to use UTC for this fly because it is slick and the elk hair spins on it.
Tail: Fl. shell pink antron yarn
Dubbing: purple ice dub
Wing: Elk hair
Overwing: Pink poly yarn
Hackle stacker core: 6x monofilament
Hackle: grizzly dry fly saddle

To begin, attach the thread and tie down the antron yarn tail.

Dub the abdomen and lay a thick layer of thread on the thorax as a base for the wing which will help keep it on top of the hook and avoid spinning.

Tie on the elk hair

Add the pink yarn over the top for visibility and added floatation.

Tie in a loop of 6x facing forward

Pull it back and tie it in again. This will lock it in and keep it from slipping out when you begin wrapping the hackle. I know from experience this is a frustrating occurrence.

Tie in the hackle on the far side of the hook.

Dub the thorax

Wrap the hackle in tight touching turns upward while holding up the thread with your right index finger. Make sure the length of wrapped hackle is no longer than the thorax but long enough to cover it.

Wrap the hackle back down in about half as many turns. End with it facing away from you.

Tie down the loop in front of the thorax with just a couple of turns.

Pull the loop tight, pull it back, and tie it down with a few more tight turns. This also anchors the hackle in place without having to tie it off.

Whip finish, clip off the loop and hackle and you're done.



Are you under the fish?

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Yesterday my friend Connor Murphy and I hit a local stillwater. When we arrived we both had on intermediate lines. When temperatures are cold spring and fall, this is often a good line choice as stilwater fish often come shallow to feed as soon as temperatures drop back below the low 60's.  However, when we motored into a shallow cove I've had success in before, there were a few fish rising that turned into a lot of fish rising in short order. We covered a few fish but had little success and our flies found weeds unless we sped the retrieve faster than I felt comfortable with in 41 degree water. Even though we were fishing shallow sinking lines, they were still too deep. I switched to a midge tip and brass beaded or unweighted flies and quickly began catching many of the risers I covered. Connor switched to a floater and his catching followed suit. After we had caught or put down most of the fish in the cove we motored around the corner and found a bunch more risers with even better results than in the first cove. A little ways off the pair of anglers in the photo below were wade fishing the bank.

The angler in the center of the picture had a pod of over 2 dozen risers constantly working the bank in front of him. We fished within site of him for several hours and the risers never stopped. In that amount of time, Connor and I were fortunate enough to catch dozens of fish each with less dense pods of fish. I watched the angler only land 4 or 5 and Connor and I both wanted to motor over and lend some help but couldn't bring ourselves to do it for fear of how we would be received. Though he might not have been the sharpest caster, it wasn't his skill that was keeping him from catching trout. He was fishing a fly 4 or so feet below an indicator. The problem was that the fish were less than a foot below the surface. 
His lack of success led me to think about a common problem with many fly anglers' strategies. Trout (and other salmonids) are visual predators. True, they have lateral lines that sense vibration and nares that serve olfactory purposes, but by and large they find most of their prey through visual detection. (Different salmonids have different visual capabilities by the way. One of the characteristics that allow sympatric brown trout and Arctic char as well as sympatric Dolly Varden and cutthroat trout to coexist is the superior vision of the char species in low light.) 
The positioning of eyes on a trout create monocular vision on each side with binocular vision in front and in a cone shape above them. A quick search on the web will give you a run down on the technical aspects but the main thing to remember is trout generally see at or above their level. They are more adept at column feeding than they are at benthic grubbing, though they occasionally use this strategy especially in weedy waters where scuds or sowbugs are their main table fare. Trout's column feeding strategy would generally suggest that your flies should also be at or above a trout's level if your goal is for them to actually see and eat your flies. This principle applies to stillwaters and rivers. This is generally why I like to start above the level where I think the trout are and work my way down. If my first depth guess is incorrect, a deeper increment in fly line choice or fly weight usually puts me in the zone where trout see my flies and are close enough to them to be willing to intercept as long as other aspects of my presentation are suitable. If I guess too deep to begin with then I'm left with the fate of the angler I met yesterday. Let's all avoid that fate and put a few more fish in our nets by working our way down instead of staying under the trout were after.

Euro nymphing 101: Part 1

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Euro Nymphing 101
A Euro nymphed rainbow from the Arkansas River on Black Friday
I had a friend and reader of the blog ask if I would give a general article on European nymphing with its basic concepts and why an angler might want to venture to learn it. I’ve been giving a Powerpoint presentation to clubs and clinics on this topic for a couple of years now. I consider the presentation to be only a superficial attempt at educating an audience on the subject and it takes me at least 1.5-2 hours to deliver. The shear fact of the matter is that I’ve been using the suite of more contemporary Euro nymphing techniques since Lance Egan introduced me to what he referred to as French nymphing in 2007. At the time it was a radical change that I wish I’d thought of myself years earlier.  There is no way to boil the topic down into a blog post, let alone a series of posts. There are books for that and, as I’ve mentionedbefore,George Daniel’s book Dynamic Nymphing represents the most complete treatment of the topic at present. In the end, nothing will educate an angler on Euro nymphing more than finding someone adept at it and spending lots of time on the water. However, maybe a background and basics on Euro nymphing will inspire a few more people to take it up so I’ll at least venture an attempt over a few posts. In this first post I’ll cover the background behind how I was introduced to the method.

Part 1:
In 2007, Lance Egan returned home from the World Fly Fishing Championships in Portugal toting a book by Czech angler Karel Krivanec entitled Czech Nymph and Other Related Fly Fishing Methods
Teaching my newborn the value of good literature
The book mainly deals with a style of nymphing that was largely phased out among the top anglers of the World Championship by the time the book was published. This style is reminiscent of what Glenn Zinkus described in an article I referenced recently. Krivanec's book might be part of the reason why American anglers have a somewhat outdated view of Czech/Euro nymphing even though it's only a few years old. However, Krivanec makes mention of French Nymphing and the exceptionally long leaders used for it in just a few pages.  Lance put this quickly referenced information together with the idea of a technique former Team USA captain Jack Dennis referred to as the “French Roll.” Jack thought of the technique as being used to imitate emerging caddis. In reality, it was a simply a very effective strategy to rapidly cover shallow water. It was typified by casting one or two small tungsten nymphs upstream and allowing only a very short drift before quickly picking up and casting again.
            About a month after Lance returned he called me and said he had something that was going to “blow my mind.” He’s not the kind of all too common angler who employs hyperbole to gain the favor of others. He’s too gifted to need anything other than his own skill for that so I knew he must have had something good. A few days later we piled in my car with our friend Kurt Finlayson and headed off to a small stream in central Utah. The stream is known for a dense population of small to medium brown trout that tend to respond well to dry or dry dropper rigs. We rigged up 3 rods with a dry, a dry dropper, and a French leader rig. We fished the first two rigs in a number of runs, riffles, and pools and usually caught several fish on each.  We then fished the French rig through the same water and often caught at least several more in each piece of water after it had been fished exhaustively.
I knew that Lance had come upon something special and I spent the next month before the National Championship learning as much as I could about the technique. I compared it to the dry dropper and Czech/Polish nymphing rigs, that I had been fishing in competitions for several years prior, in my own quasi experiments. Almost invariably, the French leader out-fished the other methods and I was catching staggering numbers of fish in addition to fishing water types I’d rarely found success in before. I found that the French rig provided technical advantages that made it the most versatile nymphing strategy that exists to my knowledge.
Most anglers in the competitive circuit now refer to the leader’s use as Euro nymphing because it has come to incorporate a variety of upstream and cross current approaches inspired by multiple European countries. In the next couple of posts I’ll cover how to rig for Euro nymphing, some basic techniques when using it, and why I believe it out-fishes suspension/indicator rigs in most water types and situations.

Euro Nymphing 101: Part 2

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            For this post I’ll take you through one way to rig a Euro nymph leader and some basic concepts of how to use it.

            To begin, below is a slide of a typical Euro leader. The flies are usually tungsten beaded nymphs with weight and size adjusted for depth or imitation. However you can clip off the top nymph for a single fly rig or tie a dry on the tag for a dry dropper rig. The sighter is a section of bright colored monofilament that allows visual signaling of takes instead of a typical strike indicator. Common materials are Stren Hi vis, Amnesia, or sighter specific colored mono from Cortland and Umpqua.


 

            Euro nymphing can be done upstream or across the river and in most water types. Slow flats or pools are often fished better by other techniques however.

            When fishing upstream, cast above your intended holding lie far enough to allow nymphs to sink to the depth of the fish. The sighter can either be greased and floated or held off the water to drift through small pockets. Allow the rig to drift with the speed of the current where your flies are. This is often slower than the speed of the current at the surface so water current will likely move faster than your sighter. Stop your rod high to avoid large amounts of leader on the water, which causes drag. Slack should be picked up either through stripping line or  raising the rod. You should catch a fish or tick bottom every few casts unless a hatch has fish suspended in the column necessitating a mid column presentation. I pick up the cast when the leader nears a vertical angle under the rod tip if I haven’t had a sighter take prior to this point in the drift. I usually fish upstream wherever I feel I will spook fish if I approach them from across current. This often coincides with skinny pockets or riffles but can also be smoother water in pools or flats. Any hesitation or jump in the sighter signals a take or your flies ticking bottom and a direct hook set should be quickly applied. You will find you need less distance and effort on your hook sets than you would indicator nymphing because there is very little slack in the system and a small movement of the rod will put you in touch with the fish.

            When fishing across the stream, again cast above your intended target with a high stop of the rod. Raise the rod vertically until the leader approaches a near vertical angle below the rod tip. If you stopped high enough (shoulder height or above) than you may not need to raise the rod any further at the beginning of the drift. Begin moving the rod downstream at the speed of the current the flies are in. Again, this speed will often be slower than the surface current. If you move your rod faster than the current the leader will take on a horizontal angle. A horizontal leader signals you are leading your flies faster than the current and inducing downstream drag. This occasionally can be useful to hold your flies off the bottom in a shallow piece of the drift or to induce a take from fish that don’t take a dead drift for some reason. A near vertical dead drift angle is usually my first choice however. At the end of the drift, if you are in a run or pool that provides a long enough drift, allow the flies to swing and this can induce a take, especially during hatch times. Takes are again indicated by any slight hesitation, jump, or even angle change in the sighter and they are usually much easier for novice anglers to spot when fishing across current than when Euro nymphing upstream. If you set the hook and no fish appears, make your hook set into a backcast and make your forward cast in a slightly elliptical movement coming over the top of your backcast. This will swing your flies over your rod tip on the forward stroke, which avoids a collision with your rod.

            Whether casting upstream or across, you must wait until you feel the nymphs tighten in a quick but subtle“hit” behind you before coming forward. It takes more time than when casting fly line because line speed is slower. Most anglers, even experienced ones, struggle with this and I have talked to many veterans of our sport who have given up on Euro nymphing because they can’t get the hang of the casting the rig. Most casting issues can be avoided by shortening and quickening the casting strokes, stopping the rod high on both strokes, and waiting to feel nymphs turn over behind you. If you struggle with waiting in the back, watch your flies fully turn over and drop on the forward cast. Keep track of this time mentally. If you have a backcast with the same energy and shape as the forward cast, it will require the same mentally tracked time to turn over in back.

            Adjusting for depth with a Euro rig is summarized in the slide below. When indicator nymphing split shot are added or removed and the indicator’s position on the leader is changed to adjust for depth. When Euro nymphing, depth adjustments are made by changing flies, leader length, leader angle and elevation, and managing leader angle of entry through your casting stroke. This might sound complicated but but is actually much easier and more versatile than indicator rig adjustments. The simple array of options to adjust for depth make it possible to fish depths from inches to many feet with little to no manual change to the leader.

 

For some quick video examples of Euro nymphing click hereor here.  However, don't pattern your casting after these anglers. Both stop their rod too low on the forward stroke and the first angler has far too long and exaggerated a stroke for such short casts.

In the next post (part 3) I'll outline why I think Euro nymphing is much more effective in most water types than the slack line indicator/suspension rigs so prevalent in American fly fishing at present.



Some More French Nymphing Info

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Some more French nymphing info from Karel Krivanec here. Check it out.

Euro Nymphing 101: part 3

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       For my last installment of Euro nymphing 101, I'm going to quickly take you through why I believe Euro nymphing is more successful than typical indicator nymphing in most water types. Today was a perfect example. I was fortunate enough to spend the day fishing a local tailwater with Antonio Rodrigues from Portugual. Antonio has represented his native country very well in the World Fly Fishing Championships many times and I've been both fortunate and unfortunate enough to fish directly against him in my group during two World Championships.
Antonio in the zone
       The local water utility czar jumped the water on today's tailwater from 15 to over 200 cfs in the last several days. Hearing that the water had been raised, quite a few other anglers joined us on the river though most of them were expecting the 80 cfs that was supposed to be flowing. I talked to several who said "I've had a few bites" but no fish to hand. I couldn't help but notice that every angler I met had a thingamabobber attached to their leader. Using Euro nymphing techniques, Antonio and I were fortunate enough to catch fish with ease and regularity throughout the day despite 39 degree water temperatures and high water for this temperature. Though we are both very experienced anglers, I firmly believe that if the anglers I met had been given a Euro nymphing rig and sufficient instruction, they would have had the fish they came to the river for. Having spent the first dozen or more years of my fly fishing life convinced that indicator nymphing was the king of river techniques for catching numbers of fish, I know from personal experience that I was mistaken now at least in most water types. The picture below explains much of the reason why I think this is the case.

       Think of this diagram as representing a very typical river situation. The blue arrows represent different currents and the size of the arrows reflects the speed of each of these currents. In this diagram and in many cases on the river, the indicator rig is cast up and across the river, the indicator lands in one current speed while the flies land in another further across the river. Line is mended and slack is managed to try and provide a dead drift for the indicator. The indicator becomes an anchor in the surface current, which affects the drift of the rig below. The bigger the indicator, the more current it catches. Again, the issue is that the flies are drifting in a different current seam and speed than the indicator. Therefore, the indicator may be dead drifting, but the flies are not. If the flies land in a slower current speed than the indicator, the flies are dragged downstream until they swing into the same seam of current as the indicator. The flies drift laterally until this occurs which further reduces the deadness of the drift. If the flies land in a faster current speed than the indicator, the indicator slows the drift and the flies swing downstream. Not only does a downstream swing not provide a dead drift, but there is no way to detect a strike because the flies have to be vertically below or upstream of the indicator to register a strike when a fish takes. Even if the flies land in the same current seam as the indicator, unless the distance between indicator and flies is perfectly adjusted, slack forms leading to reduced strike detection. On the fly line side of the indicator, mending induces slack which reduces the power  and increases the time of hook sets. If a fish eats during the process of mending, a hook set often can't be made and the fish is missed. Furthermore, mending is often imperfect at providing a dead drift throughout the drift and the indicator may be moved with mending leading to the flies jigging with each mend.

Though Euro nymphing has its own limitations, I believe it solves most of the above problems.
       Back to the same situation on the water, when the Euro rig is cast, it enters the water in one current seam. There is no indicator to act as a surface anchor and affect the drift. Only thin tippet penetrates the water and the angler can control the speed of the drift simply by the downstream movement speed of the rod. There is no mending and some amount of contact is maintained with the flies leading to a high proportion of strikes being detected. As an illustration from today, see the photo below.
          This eddy produced 3 fish for me with a Euro rig. With an indicator rig it would have been difficult to land the flies and indicator in the same current. Typically, the indicator would have landed in the fast downstream seam nearer to me while the flies landed in the upstream recirculated seam. Obviously, if the flies and indicator go in opposite directions, a dead drift is impossible. Many of the fish today came from similar pockets with complicated currents. Pools and runs which lend themselves to indicator nymphing were few and far between leading to fish being correspondingly few and far between for the indicator nymphers I met.

Besides the fundamental issues with drift, there are some other issues with indicator nymphing which Euro nymphing solves.

  • The typical indicator rig involves split shot above unweighted flies. A hinge forms at the split shot further inducing slack between flies and thee indicator. This slack must be removed before a strike is detected. Fishing weighted flies without split shot on a Euro rig eliminates hinges especially if a heavier fly is fished on the point (end of the leader) and a lighter or unweighted fly is fished on the dropper tag above.
  • The indicator creates a splash when it hits the water. Obviously this has the potential to spook fish. The only splash created by a Euro rig is the entry of the nymphs. Their small splash has much less potential to spook fish.
  • Indicator rigs don't fit in small pockets. If your indicator is 5 feet from your flies, then a pocket must be nearly that diameter to fit flies and indicator within the pocket. Even if your flies are only 3 feet from your indicator, the same rule applies. In many pocketwater sections I fish, pockets that large are few and far between. Only the space between flies limits the size of pockets a Euro rig can be cast into. If you fish a one fly rig then only your casting accuracy limits the size of pockets you can fish.
  • Lastly, in order to adjust for depth, the position of an indicator on the leader must be repeatedly adjusted and split shot must be added and subtracted with increasing or decreasing depth. Most depth adjustments on a Euro rig can be made simply by raising or lowering the elevation of the sighter or adjusting the angle of the leader either on the casting entry or during the drift. If these adjustments aren't enough, a quick change of fly weight usually suffices.
Though it may seem like it, I'm not telling you to throw your indicators away and abandon suspension nymphing altogether. There are a few situations where indicator nymphing is more effective than Euro nymphing. Below is a quick list:
  • Low velocity pools, runs, or flats with fairly uniform currents create conditions where many of the problems with suspension rigs are nullified. In these water types, approaching fish within a Euro nymphing radius may be difficult without spooking them.
  • If deep water prevents wading within proximity to an intending holding lie, suspension rigs may be your only hope of reaching the fish.
  • If wind is above around 15 mph, controlling the drift of a Euro leader becomes very difficult. In windy conditions, the anchoring nature of the indicator becomes beneficial as it prevents the wind from blowing your flies and leader around.
  • Lastly, if the fish in your river only eat flies size 22 and smaller, it will be hard to tie flies with sufficient weight to attain depth. This situation may be countered when Euro nymphing by fishing a sacrificial heavy nymph to allow other micronymphs to attain depth, However, I find that a lot of anglers and guides today assume that fish only eat small flies in their river when it certainly isn't the case. I've fished a lot of picky tailwaters the last few years where size 12-18 flies worked just fine. There are exceptions but I don't believe most rivers require only microflies most of the time even when the fish may be focusing on minutiae.
If the rivers you fish don't fit the short list above, I highly suggest you give Euro nymphing a try. As with any method, there is a learning curve and you may not have great success your first time out. However, if you commit to Euro nymphing it won't let you down.

    Bumpywater

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    Here's a nice piece of advice from Jake Ricks at his new blog bumpywater.
    I've known Jake for quite a few years from both guiding and competing. Unfortunately I haven't spent any time with him since I left Utah but I can attest to his fishiness and I've really enjoyed his literary and tactical posts so far. Give his blog a read!

    Cortland White Indicator Mono Review

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                    Occasionally wild trout are wily enough to spook to bright colored sighter material. In these situations, an alternate sighter material is needed. For several years the French company JMC has manufactured white mono for this purpose. I’ve known a couple of anglers who’ve fished it but I’ve never had the opportunity myself. On this side of the pond Cortland debuted their own opaque white sighter mono this past summer. Along with their competition nymph rod lineup and their 120 grain 1-2 weight nymph line, I’ve been testing their white mono since the beginning of November. For most of that time, I’m not sure that it provided much of an advantage in the tea and gray colored water I had been frequenting along the Front Range. However, Christmas Eve provided the perfect example of its utility.

                    Whenever I come home for Christmas I make sure to work in plenty of fishing time on my old favorite waters. 
    Lance Egan fishing the Provo

    I spent Christmas Eve on one of these waters, a spring creek oasis in the middle of the desert.

     This creek has exceptionally clear water and the sight fishing opportunities are numerous. The fish also have a habit of holding in skinny water where a stealthy approach is needed to avoid spooking them.  Within a few hours of fishing on this trip, I’d spooked more than a few trout despite well-placed casts. On several occasions, I watched fish jet while my fluorescent sighter passed over their head. Getting into position hadn’t spooked them but apparently the bright sighter negated my careful approach. After several of these instances, I switched back to the Cortland white sighter material that I’d been fishing on a different reel. While I can’t say that the white sighter was the only reason, the rest of my day was markedly better after the sighter switch. Especially when sight fishing in shallow lies, less fish spooked and more fish came to the end of my line. Now, I definitely plan to keep the white sighter as part of my arsenal for clear water and spooky trout. I also see it as an extra tactic to avoid alerting beleaguered fish in the late sessions of competitions. It certainly can’t hurt.

                    Before I started fishing the white mono, I obviously wondered how visible it would be. In most situations, it’s actually quite visible. Even my father, who has a relatively difficult time seeing other sighter material, was able to spot the white mono well. There are a few limitations to its visibility, however. It’s pretty much useless when foam or snow is behind it for obvious reasons. It is also tough to see in the glare from last light or when the sun is peeking through clouds. I find red or pink mono easier to see in glare. Lastly, it is most visible in rivers with a dark bottom which provides the best silhouette and not as visible against sandy bottoms.  

                    Though white mono may have some limitations, it still is visible in most conditions and I believe its potential to avoid spooking trout makes it a valuable tool in the Euro nympher’s tool box. I highly recommend you give Cortland’s white mono a try.  In addition to its stealthy color, it is a nice stiff sighter material that helps turn over long French leaders with light flies. It has earned a place on my leader and I think you’ll like it too.

    Arctic char

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    Some of you know I've been doing my master's research on an introduced population of Arctic char in Colorado. I took a break from the fly rod to get a few of them through the ice today. Since they're such an elegant fish, I thought I'd post some pictures for you all to see. It's been a fun project to get to know these fish that you couldn't normally find without going far north.





    And here's a few from last year





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